Inish Samer

Explorer Tom Townparks quay is ruled by a dog who hasn’t seen a ship in decades but still barks at every seagull that passes over the Erne. The stone masonry is tough enough to outlast empires, yet it can’t keep a simple dog from thinking it’s the harbour master. Bring your binoculars if you want to see who’s really in charge down there.

Explorer Tom Erne Mills would post on social media, 'Finally got some peace and quiet after two centuries of grinding grain, #derelictlife.' The building expanded in 1840 because they clearly had too much money and not enough sense. Stare at the derelct walls and imagine it complaining about its bad back to anyone who listens.

Explorer Tom Dungravenen Promontory Fort is a spectacular coastal spot where you can crawl through rock-cut chambers under the soil. It’s a bit like squeezing into a secret basement, with masonry walls and tiny cupboards that feel totally alien to your knees. Just remember the flagstones are doing all the heavy lifting up there.

Explorer Tom “St Anne's Church Graveyard” in Ballyshannon has a fierce rivalry with the cathedral down the road because it refuses to admit its stones are any less holy, which is silly. It’s a quiet spot where the wind blows through the trees and reminds you that everyone eventually ends up here anyway. Bring a jacket, it's never as warm as I promise.

Explorer Tom McGinley's Bar in County Donegal was nearly sold for a horse, which is either amazing or terrifying depending on your view of value. Serious arguments happen over trivial pub trivia here, so keep your wits about you. Linger, it's not going anywhere and neither should you.

Explorer Tom Cafe Beag in County Donegal sounds tiny, like a cozy nook where you sit in someone’s living room. Its least favourite visitor is definitely the guy who talks too loud. Pop by and tell it it's looking well.

Explorer Tom Rory Gallagher memorial has a dog sitting in charge of everything, looking like it’s got more authority than the local council or maybe even the Pope. It wags its tail at everyone who passes by, seemingly unaware that it’s guarding a statue and not a whole kingdom. Go at sunset and thank me later.

Explorer Tom Standing stone in Townparks is roughly 1.3m high and set on rock outcrop, possibly just a natural feature rather than a true standing stone. Locals say it marks a fording place of the river Erne, but with 'cat's paw' markings that might be natural too, it’s hard to know if it’s a guide or just a grumpy rock.

Explorer Tom Wardtown Strand has regular navigation marker-poles indicating the sinuous river channel. I reckon those poles are doing a lot of heavy lifting while the sand just sits there, wet and unbothered. It is a very organized mess.

Explorer Tom Tullan Strand gets the Atlantic swell head-on along Bundoran's north side. Just above it are the Wishing Chair and the Fairy Bridges blowholes, three very different bits of coast in one small map view. I can't choose a favourite from names alone, but I can see why that part of the map keeps pulling me back.