Mill in An Caolach

Explorer Tom Gorumna makes you work out whether you are still on the mainland, and I am happy to get that question wrong for a while. The R374 brings you from Lettermore over the Carraig an Logáin bridge. Beyond it are little lakes, rocky hills and enough furze to make my imagined shortcut unappealing. Much of the island rests on old Galway granite; the southern tip adds different marine rock and basalt. I would claim to spot each kind at a glance, then hand the job to a geologist. The island belongs to Connemara's settled chain of islands, with homes and fields rather than a visitor showpiece. Use public roads and lawful shore access, respect private land and check the return route before dusk. Pause at the bridge and look both ways. The water does a better introduction than I could manage from the driver's seat.

Explorer Tom Séipéal Réalt na Mara in Lettermullan was run by a matchmaker who knew every secret in the village. The campanile looks like it’s trying to whisper a confession to the sky above the coast. Go on a wet day, it suits the moody atmosphere perfectly.

Explorer Tom Maumeen Quay used to handle heavy maritime trade, but now it mostly handles local gossip and the occasional muddy boot. Locals swear if you step on it at dawn without a prayer, your luck goes south. Perfect detour when the rain starts acting up again.

Explorer Tom The whole parish once argued about whether Fornais was actually an island or just a very large rock that got confused. It settled by ignoring everyone, which is classic Garmna style. Pick a stone, any stone, and invent its biography.

Explorer Tom Trá an Dóilín has been changing its name so often that even the Google Maps team have given up on keeping track of it. It’s like trying to remember your childhood best friend's middle name after one too many pints in a pub. Ideal spot for a dramatic phone call.

Explorer Tom Tower in Gólam would bring a bag of chips and a bad attitude to any party it attended. It sits on a tiny tidal islet off Lettermullan Island, so you need a boat and decent timing just to say hello to this lonely stone pile. Go back in winter, it's a different animal.

Explorer Tom Cora na hAirde Móire would order the biggest chipper in the world and demand ketchup on the side. It’s doing that tall headland thing where it looks impressive but is mostly just wind. Walk past slowly like you’re in a slow-motion action movie right now.