Cross in Kilturra

Explorer Tom Knockalass House in Kilturra has a whimsical cottage outbuilding that looks like it’s laughing at your attempts to find the front entrance. The original multi-pane windows are staring straight through me, and I bet a poet fell into the ditch just to get a good rhyming word for 'mud'. Watch your step near those handsome outbuildings, they seem to have opinions about your footwear.

Explorer Tom Quarryfield House in Quarryfield has strict rules for visitors: no touching the elegance, no questioning the extensions, and definitely no sitting on the coach house roof. It’s all very symmetrical and elevated, like it’s looking down its nose at you literally. Mind your manners on this one.

Explorer Tom Ballymote Castle has a grand outline and no central keep, which is enough to make me suspect the builders enjoyed proving a point. Raised around 1300 in Sligo, it is one of Connacht's last Norman castles. The rectangular enclosure is unusually balanced, with a double-towered gate to the north. Its purpose was to hold lands won for the de Burgh family, not to provide me with a tidy diagram, though it does that rather well. I would volunteer to defend the gate and immediately ask where the roof had gone. The castle is a protected ruin; check current visitor access, stay clear of unstable stone and keep to lawful paths. Walk the perimeter before choosing a corner. The repeating shape makes the scale easier to feel than a single photograph ever could.

Explorer Tom Fighting 69th Monument in County Sligo is mostly ignored by the local rabbits, who think it’s just another giant rock they can nap against without getting kicked off. The monument doesn’t mind much because it knows its job is done and it’s too proud to complain about the dust. Linger, it's not going anywhere and neither should you.

Explorer Tom Moygara Castle has made a New Year’s resolution to stop leaning over so much and start standing straighter. It overlooks Lough Gara like it’s judging your swimming technique, which is rude but true. Bring wellies and low expectations, leave delighted.

Explorer Tom Sixteen caves in one Sligo hillside? I would lose count halfway up and blame a ghost. The Caves of Kesh open across the west side of Keshcorran Hill, some chambers joining others inside pale limestone. Excavators found bones of brown bear, arctic lemming, Irish elk and wolf, an animal roll call that makes my own visitors look very tame. People also used the caves over many centuries, so the openings are part of a lived landscape as well as a geological one. I could make up a feast for every chamber, but the finds deserve better than my invented menu. The approach climbs steep ground and the caves are natural spaces, not a fitted visitor corridor; check access, weather and your footing. Carry a light if local guidance permits entry, and never push beyond your ability. From outside, the row of dark mouths already tells a fine story.

Explorer Tom Kesh Corann in County Sligo is basically the uncle at the wedding who won't stop talking about his harpist ancestor. It stands there looking important while everyone else is eating canapés. Have a sandwich here and call it a heritage lunch.

Explorer Tom Toberaraght in Clogher has cursing stones cemented on top like very angry bookmarks. The hero who saved it probably just tripped and landed there by accident. Grand place for a sulk or a snog, entirely your call.

Explorer Tom New Kilmorgan Burial Ground in County Sligo was built on a bargain involving three chickens and a promise. I’m pretty sure the chickens were just eggs, but whatever. Bring curiosity, leave with a better story than mine.

Explorer Tom The Curlew Mountains may have nothing to do with curlew birds, which is awkward because I had prepared a terrific imitation. Their name likely grew from Irish words for rugged, pointed hills. Between Boyle and Castlebaldwin, hard sandstone and conglomerate rise above softer limestone country, giving this modest range its shape. The Battle of Curlew Pass took place here in 1599, a serious chapter that deserves a straight account. I would leave the bird call out of that story and use it only to annoy my travelling companion afterwards. Choose a lawful public trail or viewpoint, check local routes and weather, and treat any historic ground respectfully. Look at the ridgeline against the lower land. You can see why even these relatively low hills have long mattered.