Carrickaduff Hill

Explorer Tom Barnesmore has been carrying the wrong name tag. Mountaineering Ireland calls this summit Croaghonagh and says Barnesmore belongs to the gorge below. I would ask the mountain to swap labels with the road, but it has stood its ground longer than my map has.

Explorer Tom Bridge in Croaghonagh has dressed stone voussoirs so fancy they’re basically wearing a tuxedo to a muddy field party, and it’s totally not embarrassed about it. It’s got an unlikely celebrity friend who’s probably just a very proud mason who wanted his name carved into the arch forever. Stand back and admire the high-quality stonework; don’t touch the fancy bits or they’ll get jealous.

Explorer Tom Viaduct, Bridge, Embankment in Keadew Upper marks the old railway route into the Barnesmore Gap. The line opened towards Donegal Town in 1889 and later changed gauge; that plain stone bridge kept its place after trains stopped in 1960.

Explorer Tom Right then, let’s have a look at Lough Hill in County Donegal. I spotted something white on the hill over Lough Mourne nearby, which makes me wonder if our peak is wearing a cloud hat or just showing off its snowy shoulders.

Explorer Tom The Ring, Leghawny Stone Enclosure is soaked through and hides a seat-like stone structure called 'the Chair'. It’s not exactly comfortable, but it’s the perfect spot to watch the rain come down on Clogher Hill in absolute solitude.

Explorer Tom Harvey’s Point has manicured lawns running straight down to the water, which sounds like a slippery slope for anyone in heels. A Swiss family started it all, so expect some weird European quirks. Tell the kids it's a castle. Close enough.

Explorer Tom Ard na Mona Wood had a serious falling out with the next village over whose turn it was to take out the recycling. It’s been sulking in the shadows of Banagher Hill ever since, looking very dignified about the whole mess. Ring your granny and tell her where you are.

Explorer Tom Saints Island sounds like the place to land for the Lough Derg pilgrimage, but that is Station Island next door. This island held the early monastery; Lough Derg calls it overgrown and inaccessible. Even my map needs the two islands kept straight.

Explorer Tom St Patrick's Cross on Station Island is a 1.3m shaft wrapped in spiralling bands that look like ancient rope. It’s said to have been moved here from Saint's Island, which sounds like a bit of a logistical nightmare back then. Standing next to the penal beds, it feels like a tiny, confused survivor of a much bigger monastic operation.

Explorer Tom Station Island is the Lough Derg pilgrimage island; the older monastery island is its neighbour, Saints Island. The traditional pilgrimage lasts three days. I would want the current dates and a proper booking sorted before I packed, because a lake crossing deserves more planning than my usual wandering.

Explorer Tom Patrick the Pilgrim stands there judging your life choices while St. Patrick’s Purgatory looms in the background like a bad dream waiting to happen. It would review its own visitors by saying 'good effort on the walking, poor choice of footwear' without even looking up. Hum something sad nearby, it adds atmosphere.

Explorer Tom Teach Tábhairne an Rileán in County Donegal has a mouthful of a name. Say it three times fast for me and tell me how you feel! Bring your worst joke, the place has heard worse.