Altar in Toraigh

Explorer Tom Tory Island Early Church Graveyard lies beside West Town harbour, where the survey describes a stone-built altar halfway along its west wall. A damaged cross-slab is fixed there, and another cross base was found in the graveyard in 2012. The old Civil Survey spoke of five nearly ruined churches on the island; I won't squeeze all five into this one graveyard dot.

Explorer Tom Teach Pobail Cholmcille Naofa is a graceful little Gothic church that cost just £392 back in 1857. I picture its eccentric window tracery looking like it was drawn by a very wobbly crayon on a windy Tory Island afternoon. It’s the kind of building that fits perfectly into a pocket-sized town.

Explorer Tom Tory elected a king who had fewer powers than I give myself. Tory Island is Donegal's faraway neighbour, and 141 people called it home in the 2022 census. It is the most remote inhabited island in Ireland, yet its stories have travelled widely. A bell tower from an early monastery still stands, while artists have made an island community here since the twentieth century. Best of all, the islanders traditionally chose a “king” by agreement. I would stand for the crown, but the islanders would send me back on the next ferry. He had no legal power; welcoming visitors and speaking for the place were part of the job. I could manage the welcome and would be dismissed by lunchtime for too much talking. Irish remains the main local language, so listen before you try to rename anything. The passenger ferry from the Donegal mainland depends on sea conditions, and cars are not part of the usual crossing. Give Tory a day that can bend with the weather. A place this small can still refuse to be a footnote.

Explorer Tom Derek Hill's Hut in County Donegal would complain to the council about the wind getting into its roof every single day. It’s just a tiny hut sitting up there looking like it’s waiting for a rescue that never comes. Grand place for a sulk or a snog, your call really.

Explorer Tom Tory Island Lighthouse has a pair of former keepers' houses built around 1885 to 1888. Their flat roofs and three chimneys make a neat row beside the light. After its 1990 automation, the buildings found other uses; the chimneys kept their places.

Explorer Tom Siege of Tory Island in County Donegal is where a priest lost a massive bet to a sailor, which he says was only because his hat blew off and he looked ridiculous. The island just sat there watching the whole thing unfold with the patience of someone who has seen far worse weather and far worse decisions. Perfect spot to practise your best tour-guide voice.

Explorer Tom Cliffs of Toraig presents a geological split personality. The eastern cliffs are tough quartzite, shrugging off the north Atlantic, while the rest of the island is mostly softer granite. I bet that difference gives it a very one-sided argument with the waves.

Explorer Tom Another Tory Island Way spot is deeply suspicious of the postman because he once delivered a bill for fuel that had been burned three hundred years ago. The island is only four kilometers long, so you can’t really hide from your debts or your bad choices here. Take a mate and argue about what it was for.

Explorer Tom Balor of the Evil Eye: Tory Island has a fort named after him and a sea full of enough weather to make any giant blink. Tory's community group keeps his story alive. That Evil Eye must have been useful, but I reckon the Atlantic could stare back harder.

Explorer Tom Dún Balair Fort clings to the highest tip of Tory Island, looking like it’s daring the sea to take a bite. A grass-covered stone wall and a vanished 'Little Castle' hint at layers of history hiding in plain sight. It’s exposed, dramatic, and absolutely refuses to be subtle about its location.

Explorer Tom Oileán Dúiche has a church ruin so small it is only fifteen feet long. The sole doorway stands five feet high but tapers as it rises, which is quite a fancy shape for such a tiny entrance. I reckon the builders really wanted to make sure you knew when you were getting in.

Explorer Tom Magheraroarty has pulled a fine trick on the map: Atlantic on one side of a sandy spit, Ballyness Bay on the other, Inishbofin up north. That is enough directions for one beach to manage. The western shore takes a strong Atlantic wash, so I would keep my admiration on dry sand.