Knocknafaugher

Explorer Tom Former Knocknafaugher Stone Enclosure is basically a ghost perched on a sheer cliff edge. The old maps promised a stone ring, but now there’s just good grazing and a dizzying drop to the north-east. It’s vanished completely, so maybe the sheep just ate it.

Explorer Tom Sandhill Mass Rock is a sandstone overhang where Catholic Masses were held during the Penal Law era, around 1690 to 1825. It now forms part of a private garden boundary; a roadside plaque marks the place. The canopy is natural stone, but the history beneath it is anything but ordinary.

Explorer Tom The Manse in Ballymore Upper was built around 1860 with decorative ridge tiles and a balcony over its front porch. The account links it to a nearby Presbyterian church later replaced in Dunfanaghy around 1880. I thought the roof would get all the attention; the little balcony disagrees.

Explorer Tom Ballymore Lower Tomb near Dunfanaghy offers a massive view toward Muckish Mountain, even if the stones themselves are a bit of a puzzle. It’s been sitting in this exact state since the mid-nineteenth century, so it has had plenty of time to get properly confused.

Explorer Tom Kill Old Church Graveyard is roughly 50 by 25 metres, with its church in the northern part. A 1622 report called that church newly rebuilt and well repaired; it remained in use until a new one was built at Ballymore in 1752. I enjoy the change in viewpoint: the same place can be 'newly' repaired in one document and old church on this map.

Explorer Tom Ards Forest Park puts four ringfort remains, a holy well and a Mass rock among walks that also reach salt marsh and sand dunes. Ancient stones and sea air make a rather full day here.

Explorer Tom Killahoey has a beach with a second act: an estuary and broad mud flat at the eastern end. Horn Head is in the audience. I might end up watching the birds instead of the waves, which is exactly the sort of distraction I came for.

Explorer Tom Shandon Hotel in Donegal sounds like it’s been standing there since the Viking era. Ask a receptionist how old it really is and see if they blink.

Explorer Tom Children's playground in County Donegal is where I sat with a flask and contemplated the void. Best deep thoughts happen on a bench, trust me. A proper spot for a flask of tea and a big think.

Explorer Tom Arnold's Hotel in County Donegal claims to be fancy, but I bet you the pillows are made of pure gossip. Sleep tight, or don't, it's your call really.

Explorer Tom Local Wildlife presentation at New Lake is beautifully painted by hand, though the paint is peeling like my motivation. The local sheep think it’s a bit pretentious. Practise your Irish on it; it won't correct your grammar.

Explorer Tom Breaghy Head looks like a shoulder of the earth that’s been shrugging at the ocean for millennia. There’s a cottage nearby that probably has stories to tell, or just WiFi issues. Best enjoyed with a bag of chips and no plans.