Inishowen Head Loop

Explorer Tom Cliffs, Inishowen Head are right at the tip of the world, or so it feels. The rocks have been listening to sailors argue for centuries, and they’ve heard everything. Stand on the spot and imagine the gossip it's heard.

Explorer Tom Inishowen Signal Station had a phone, a flag machine, and a Morse code keyboard! I bet the watchman spent his whole shift tapping messages about boring things like passing boats. It must have been lonely shouting 'hello' at the empty sea!

Explorer Tom Port a Dorais Cave and Natural Door in Stroove is literally a rock arch the sea built just to show off. I bet it’s been judging everyone who dares walk that mile down the shore. Mind your toes on the rocks, yeah?

Explorer Tom Stroove Beach has two lighthouses for neighbours, which is a lot of competition for a small shore. The sand is the reason for this stop, not the towers. I might ask the towers to mind my place while I take my litter home, as Donegal tourism asks visitors to do.

Explorer Tom Dunagree Point carries the twin granite towers of Inishowen Lighthouse. The lighthouse account says its rear tower was raised by 7.6 metres to improve visibility on Lough Foyle. I can almost hear the headland saying, “I stayed put while the tower did the stretching.”

Explorer Tom Stroove Lighthouse has a former twin tower 153 yards from the other one. George Halpin designed the pair for lights established in 1837; this tower later became a store and has foghorns on its roof. Even retired, it has a louder voice than most lighthouses.

Explorer Tom Michael John's Pub has two first names, which makes it basically a committee of one. I saw a toucan on the wall, but the car park was empty and quiet. If it's closed, admire it from the road like a polite stalker.

Explorer Tom White Strand near Dunagree Point is exactly what it sounds like: white sand and zero chill. It's got a certain ethereal vibe that might just be me being tired. Go before the tourists find out.

Explorer Tom Greencastle Martello Fort was built to stop Napoleon from wading in. I can’t help but imagine him slipping on a wet rock and sliding all the way down to Derry with his hat flying off.

Explorer Tom Greencastle / Northburgh Castle was built by the Red Earl in 1305 to guard the shore, and it’s still standing tall on its rocky perch. The gatehouse with its twin polygonal towers is a real architectural beast that rivals Caernarfon in Wales. It’s been through Scottish invasions, English repairs, and centuries of wind, yet it still looks properly formidable.

Explorer Tom Martello tower on magilligan point in Doaghs Lower is throwing a century-old tantrum. It claims to be a fortress but looks like a giant's forgotten chimney. Best enjoyed with a bag of chips and no plans whatsoever.

Explorer Tom Crockaulin offers a lonely triangulation pillar that stares down at Greencastle from a dizzying height. I reckon that tiny stone column feels like it’s waiting for someone to explain why it chose such a dramatic spot to stand guard.