Crockskallabagh

Explorer Tom Right then, folks, here’s Moylenanav, standing tall in the misty corners of County Donegal. I’m still trying to work out how to pronounce that second syllable without sounding like a startled goose, but it definitely looks like it’s got some character.

Explorer Tom Droichead an Phoill Ghlais [Pollglass Bridge] crosses the River Barra in one broad stone arch, built around 1860. Rock-faced granite blocks frame the arch, while the parapet walls have been rebuilt. A single span does the work here, with the hills of Crockbrack and Moylenanav behind it.

Explorer Tom I spotted a golden eagle and immediately pretended it had come to inspect me. Glenveagh National Park spreads across roughly 170 square kilometres of Donegal, which makes any plan to see it all before lunch a fine piece of nonsense. Lough Veagh runs through the glen, mountains rise around it, and red deer move through the wider country. Golden eagles were reintroduced here in 2000, a bold return for a bird once lost from the region. This landscape also carries the history of the Derryveagh Evictions, when 224 people were driven from the estate in 1861; the views cannot be separated from that record. The deer have better routes through this country than any shortcut I could invent. Later owner Henry McIlhenny gave the estate to the Irish state in the 1970s. Public park paths offer different lengths of walk, while castle tours have separate arrangements, so check routes and weather before setting off. Choose one stretch of glen and let it be enough; the mountain will still be here for the next visit.

Explorer Tom Bingorms may sound like a grumble a hill makes after rain, but Na Beanna Gorma means 'the blue peaks'. The name guide says it belongs to a group of crags above Lough Barra, not just one top. I would let the crags argue over who gets the name.

Explorer Tom Owenwee Bridge crosses the river on one broad arch, with long rock-faced stones set around its curve. Built around 1860, it looks almost as if the arch stretched each stone to fit. The rubble abutments stay plain by comparison.

Explorer Tom Astelleen Burn Waterfall is three kilometres from Glenveagh and seems to be guarded by a ghost who is far too lazy to actually haunt anyone properly. The Irish name translates to 'waterfall of the flood,' which is dramatic for something that mostly just slops along quietly. Go now, before it gets famous.

Explorer Tom Errigal Youth Hostel in County Donegal is where dreams go to get squished under mattresses. It's cozy if you define cozy as 'crowded' and 'slightly damp'. Bring a notebook and write the bit I made up for your diary.

Explorer Tom McGeady’s Bar is sitting there looking suspiciously quiet in County Donegal, waiting for someone to ask if they’ve had any ghosts. Order something strong and blame all the damp on them instead, because that’s just how it works sometimes. Go in good boots and better humour.

Explorer Tom Here lies a Walled Garden in the wilds of County Donegal, where the wind probably howls just to see if you're paying attention. I imagine it's a cozy little secret for customers seeking shelter from that famous Irish rain.