Upper Druimfin, Mull

Explorer Tom Tobermory Distillery has had the good sense to set up shop in one of Mull’s most colourful harbour towns. Founded in 1798, it has had enough time to decide on two different voices: fruity, unpeated Tobermory and smoky, peated Ledaig. If they argue over which one sounds more like the island, let the harbour settle it. The distillery’s white visitor building sits near the waterfront, where the painted houses make even a grey day seem busy. Its two malts give you a neat way into the story of barley and peat without pretending the whole of Mull tastes the same. Ask why one spirit takes smoke and the other does not, then follow the production route to see the choices behind a bottle. This is a working place rather than a whisky museum, so uneven floors and a cool warehouse are part of the visit. Wear decent shoes and bring another layer if you have booked the warehouse experience. Getting here is part of the day. The common route is a ferry from Oban to Craignure, followed by a drive across Mull to Tobermory. There is also a bus from Craignure, but it does not meet every ferry; check the connection before you sail. I would hate to spend the afternoon explaining that the boat was on time but my whisky tour was not. You can enter the visitor centre without booking, while production tours and tastings have small groups and are best reserved ahead. Children are welcome in the centre, but under-twelves cannot enter the production areas, and the warehouse experience is for adults. The distillery says its tours are not wheelchair accessible; contact the staff about other options before setting out. If you are driving, ask for samples to take away, then keep your eyes on the harbour road.