Ludwig Sanders

Explorer Tom North Ronaldsay has persuaded its sheep to eat seaweed, which is the sort of fact Tom usually invents when he runs out of notes. Here it is true. Orkney's northernmost island is ringed by a long stone dyke that keeps its distinctive flock on the shore, while fields, birds, beaches and a tall striped lighthouse fill the ground inside. The island is small; its ideas are not. The sheep dyke runs for about thirteen miles around the coast, separating the animals from inland grazing. Keeping it standing takes community effort, especially after winter storms. Migrating birds also make the island a vital stopping place, and the bird observatory helps record what arrives. At the north end the lighthouse rises above flat fields and sea; nearby, the older beacon recalls an earlier age of dangerous crossings. Walk or cycle and the island's stories appear one after another rather than in one grand monument. Tom's flock of imaginary mermaids will have to queue behind the real sheep. Ferries and flights link North Ronaldsay with Kirkwall, but sailings are limited and tides can force changes. Check the current connection before building a day trip around it. The island is only about three miles long, yet time disappears quickly between the sheep, shore, birds and lighthouse. A local shop and bird observatory provide some facilities; do not assume mainland opening hours. The roads and farm tracks make gentle exploration possible, but wind and weather can turn a pleasant circuit into a test of your jacket. Come ready to slow down, and give the residents and livestock room. North Ronaldsay's peculiar sheep are famous; the living community that keeps their world together is the better story.