Kerrow, Limekiln

Explorer Tom Insh Marshes spreads across the Spey floodplain near Kingussie, where pools, wet grass and birds make a far better argument for lingering than Tom's promise to identify every feather by name. Three trails lead through woodland and towards the marsh; the ground is softer than his confidence. Start slowly, and let the water show you what this valley does when it has room to breathe. The reserve covers about ten square kilometres between Kingussie and Kincraig. Curlews, lapwings, redshanks and snipes breed in its wet grasslands, while other birds use the place as seasons change. The conservation work is active: managers are undoing old drainage damage and adjusting grazing so the floodplain can function as habitat again. Sheep, cattle and ponies may share parts of the reserve. It is not a neat garden, and that is precisely why the marsh matters. The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds manages the reserve and provides three nature trails. Walk quietly and watch for the movement of a wader at the pool edge, or just look at cloud and hillside reflected in the water. Trails are narrow, uneven and unsurfaced in places; conditions can be wet even when the sky looks friendly. There are no toilets on site. The main entrance lies east of Ruthven Barracks on the road from Kingussie, with a small car park. The reserve is open around the clock and entry is free, but daylight gives you a fairer chance of seeing its inhabitants. Keep dogs short-led during nesting season and near livestock. Bring binoculars if you have them; the marsh will offer a view with or without a checklist.