House in Stroove

Explorer Tom Inishowen Lighthouse began guiding ships into Lough Foyle in 1837 with twin granite towers. A local tale says a keeper's geese escaped to Greencastle and ended up in a family's Christmas meal. The lights guided ships; the geese apparently needed no help finding a route.

Explorer Tom Stroove Lighthouse stands exactly 153 yards from its partner, which feels like a very serious game of tag. I picture them holding hands across that gap, refusing to let any ship wander off into the mist.

Explorer Tom Stroove Beach has two lighthouses for neighbours, which is a lot of competition for a small shore. The sand is the reason for this stop, not the towers. I might ask the towers to mind my place while I take my litter home, as Donegal tourism asks visitors to do.

Explorer Tom Michael John’s Pub has two first names, so it’s basically a committee. Ask Michael who John is. He’ll probably say he’s his brother. Suspicious.

Explorer Tom Dunagree Point carries the twin granite towers of Inishowen Lighthouse. The lighthouse account says its rear tower was raised by 7.6 metres to improve visibility on Lough Foyle. I can almost hear the headland saying, “I stayed put while the tower did the stretching.”

Explorer Tom Inishowen Head’s cliffs guard the edge of the world, but remember that a public photo doesn’t mean free entry.

Explorer Tom White Strand near Lough Foyle offers a pale, quiet corner where the gentle waters meet the shoreline.

Explorer Tom Port a Dorais features a natural rock arch door under Inishowen Head, about one and a half kilometres from Stroove beach.

Explorer Tom Greencastle Martello Fort was built to stop Napoleon from wading in. I can’t help but imagine him slipping on a wet rock and sliding all the way down to Derry with his hat flying off.

Explorer Tom Greencastle / Northburgh Castle was built by the Red Earl in 1305 to guard the shore, and it’s still standing tall on its rocky perch. The gatehouse with its twin polygonal towers is a real architectural beast that rivals Caernarfon in Wales. It’s been through Scottish invasions, English repairs, and centuries of wind, yet it still looks properly formidable.

Explorer Tom Crockaulin offers a lonely triangulation pillar that stares down at Greencastle from a dizzying height. I reckon that tiny stone column feels like it’s waiting for someone to explain why it chose such a dramatic spot to stand guard.