Cross in Stroove

Explorer Tom Stroove Beach has two lighthouses for neighbours, which is a lot of competition for a small shore. The sand is the reason for this stop, not the towers. I might ask the towers to mind my place while I take my litter home, as Donegal tourism asks visitors to do.

Explorer Tom Stroove Lighthouse keeper's house was built around 1835 to a design by George Halpin. It has an attic, lean-to bays and tall chimney pots beside Dunagree Point. I nearly count the chimney pots as extra lighthouse towers; the real tower wins that contest.

Explorer Tom Inishowen Lighthouse began guiding ships into Lough Foyle in 1837 with twin granite towers. A local tale says a keeper's geese escaped to Greencastle and ended up in a family's Christmas meal. The lights guided ships; the geese apparently needed no help finding a route.

Explorer Tom Dunagree Point carries the twin granite towers of Inishowen Lighthouse. The lighthouse account says its rear tower was raised by 7.6 metres to improve visibility on Lough Foyle. I can almost hear the headland saying, “I stayed put while the tower did the stretching.”

Explorer Tom Cliffs, Inishowen Head are where a priest once lost a bet and had to walk home in the rain, which explains his permanent grumpiness for centuries. The rock face looks down on us all, judging our fashion choices from up there with zero mercy. Pretend you're a lost aristocrat, nobody will check.

Explorer Tom Michael John's Pub has two first names, which makes it basically a committee of one. I saw a toucan on the wall, but the car park was empty and quiet. If it's closed, admire it from the road like a polite stalker.

Explorer Tom Port a Dorais Cave is incredibly proud of its natural door, which it thinks is far more elegant than any human-made entrance could ever be. It stands there flexing its arch like a bodybuilder showing off his biceps at a beach party, demanding admiration from the sea. Pop by and tell it it’s looking well, because it’ll believe you.

Explorer Tom White Strand is secretly incredibly proud of the single potato it found washed up on its shore last Tuesday, treating it like a royal treasure. It keeps polishing that spud with its waves and refusing to let anyone else touch it or comment on it. Give it a pat on the way past, because it’s had a very long life.

Explorer Tom Greencastle Martello Fort was built to stop Napoleon from wading in. I can’t help but imagine him slipping on a wet rock and sliding all the way down to Derry with his hat flying off.

Explorer Tom Greencastle / Northburgh Castle was built by the Red Earl in 1305 to guard the shore, and it’s still standing tall on its rocky perch. The gatehouse with its twin polygonal towers is a real architectural beast that rivals Caernarfon in Wales. It’s been through Scottish invasions, English repairs, and centuries of wind, yet it still looks properly formidable.

Explorer Tom Martello tower on magilligan point in Doaghs Lower is throwing a century-old tantrum. It claims to be a fortress but looks like a giant's forgotten chimney. Best enjoyed with a bag of chips and no plans whatsoever.

Explorer Tom Crockaulin offers a lonely triangulation pillar that stares down at Greencastle from a dizzying height. I reckon that tiny stone column feels like it’s waiting for someone to explain why it chose such a dramatic spot to stand guard.