Beinn Buidhe

Explorer Tom RSPB Glenborrodale joins the shore of Loch Sunart to ancient woodland, and it is the sort of place where I would start whispering without being told. Warblers and flycatchers can fill the trees with sound, while the water offers the chance of seals or an otter. My imaginary guide would promise a sighting; the real reserve makes no such bargains. The RSPB cares for this mix of oak woodland, upland and coast on the Ardnamurchan peninsula. Its work includes helping native trees renew, limiting heavy deer browsing and clearing invasive rhododendron. It also cuts some bracken so wildflowers can grow in sunny spots and feed butterflies. Look for the little living things as well as the dramatic loch: mosses, lichens and ferns are part of the woodland's richness. None of them has asked me for a speech, which is probably wise. The visitor path is a proper woodland walk rather than an easy promenade. The RSPB describes beaten earth, short boardwalk sections, several sets of steps and steep, uneven ground. Summer guided walks may be offered for a charge. If you wander independently, pause often and listen. A fleeting bird in the canopy may be the whole story for a minute, and that is enough. The reserve has only a small parking area and no toilets on site; the nearest facilities are miles away. Check the RSPB's current access notice and the weather before making the journey. Keep dogs close during nesting season and stay out of sensitive habitat. Leave with the woodland still in good shape, even if the otter has decided to keep its own appointment elsewhere.