Dingle

“Oldest town, youngest energy, mostly.”

Dingle. It’s the only town on the Dingle Peninsula, which is a bit of a flex when you consider the view. We sit right on the Atlantic coast, about fifty k southwest of Tralee. The Irish name, Daingean Uí Chúis, means fort of Ó Cúis, which sounds fancy but is basically a big hill. Tourism and fishing keep us alive, and the livestock market serves the countryside. In twenty twenty-two, we had one thousand six hundred and seventy-one residents. That’s a small crowd, so you’ll know everyone. The average age is forty-four point four, the oldest in Ireland, so bring a hip belt. Thirteen percent of us speak Irish daily, so don’t be shy. Fungie the dolphin lived here from eighty-three until twenty twenty. He loved people. We loved him. Then he left, which was rude. You’ll see the harbour, the boats, and the sheer drama of the cliffs. It’s not a postcard, it’s a headache, but a beautiful one.

Photo: JoachimKohler-HB, CC BY-SA 4.0

Then Tom went looking for the oddest places around it.

Stop 2 · A few steps on

Eaglais Naomh Muire [Saint Mary's Catholic Church]

“Roof broke, church didn't care.”

Eaglais Naomh Muire in Dingle bragged about surviving a storm that broke the pyramidal roof over the crossing. Built between 1862 and 1865, it’s got lean-to aisles that look like they’re leaning on each other for support. The bowed apse suggests it’s been through some emotional turmoil. Bring curiosity, leave with a better story than mine.

What the record says

Freestanding cruciform-plan single- and double-height Roman Catholic church, built 1862-1865, comprising five-bay double-height nave with five-bay single-storey lean-to aisles to north-east and to south-west elevations, single-bay double-height transepts to…

From the Buildings of Ireland (National Inventory of Architectural Heritage) record 21400615

Photo: Gerd Eichmann, CC BY-SA 4.0

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Stop 3 · 5 minutes down the road

Ogham stone

“Ten stones, one massive headache.”

Ogham stone in Baile An Tsagairt sparked such a huge argument last century you could hear it from the harbour. Ten stones, one big headache for everyone. Stick around for the light changing, it's a show.

What the record says

National Monument No. 64. Ballintaggart church (KE053-033001-) (site of) and old burial ground (KE053-033002-) /An Cheallúnach or An Lisín: This circular enclosure crowns the summit of a low, but prominent, hillock between Dingle Harbour and Trabeg. Ten ogham…

From the National Monuments Service (Archaeological Survey of Ireland) record KE053-033005

Photo: Superbass, CC BY-SA 4.0

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Stop 4 · A 10-minute spin away

Wedge tomb

“Sheep hovel with a view, rude.”

Wedge tomb in Dún Na Manach is doing its best impression of a sheep hovel, which is frankly rude given the view. The mapmakers clearly had a blind spot or a very bad day. Best seen with a hangover and a sausage roll.

What the record says

Pookauncorrin/Púicín an Chairn: This wedge-tomb is located near the E end of a long mountain ridge, overlooking Minard Bay on the S side of the Dingle peninsula. It commands an extensive outlook across Dingle Bay to the mountains of the Iveragh peninsula. The…

From the National Monuments Service (Archaeological Survey of Ireland) record KE054-045

Photo: Superbass, CC BY-SA 4.0

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Stop 5 · Hop back in the car, 20 minutes

Gallarus Castle

“Fox in a fur coat boss.”

Gallarus Castle sits by Smerwick Harbour, acting like it’s the main event when it’s just a tower. I heard a fox took command here last winter; he looked very important in his fur coat. Bring a jacket, it's never as warm as I promise.

What the record says

National Monument No. 65. Gallarus Castle: FitzGerald tower house which is situated in the village of Gallarus on the S shores of Smerwick Harbour. Probably 15th century in date, the castle was occupied by the FitzGeralds until 1688 (McKenna 1979, 13). In…

From the National Monuments Service (Archaeological Survey of Ireland) record KE042-064

Photo: Mick Garratt, CC BY-SA 2.0

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The whole day on one map

See everything else around Dingle →

Over a million places across Ireland and Britain, all free. Explorer Tom has a story for nearly every one.