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Situated on the River Fergus, Ennis was founded in the early 13th century AD upon the arrival of the O’Briens, formerly the kings of Munster, when they were compelled to surrender Limerick to the Anglo-Normans and move westwards into the territory of Thomond. They initially built earthen strongholds or ringworks at Clonroad c. 1210 and c. 1267 (CL033-085005- and CL033-085006-) about 1km to the E at an existing fording point on the river with a tower house constructed there about 1470 (Ó Dálaigh 1987, 28) (CL033-085001-) and a large mansion attached by 1558 (CL033-085002-). Around 1240 the Franciscans were invited to establish a monastery close to Clonroad. The Friary (CL033-082001-) was built on high ground at ‘Inis’, meaning an island (in this case formed by a secondary channel of the river) in about 1270. The Friary and the castle were linked by a causeway as much of the surrounding area was liable to flooding. Over the following centuries Ennis grew with the Friary providing a focus for a market and the river providing a channel of communication. A period of prosperity in the 15th century saw the expansion of the town with a small castle (CL033-082007-) and gatehouse (CL033-082033-) built at the southern end. No defensive walls were built at Ennis, possibly because the natural island afforded enough protection or perhaps because there was an insufficient volume of trade. The O’Brien stronghold at Clonroad protected the eastern approach to the town. A small castle (CL033-082035-), between the west doorway of the Friary and the river, protected a quay (CL033-082048-) where boats docked to land their cargoes.
In 1543 Murchadh O’Briain recognised the sovereignty of the king of England and accepted the title of earl of Thomond. By the end of the century the English had effectively established control and the dissolved Friary became the centre of English government with a court held there and a portion used as a prison. Two stone houses (CL033-082008-) were erected opposite the Friary c. 1577 for the reception of important visitors, one of which later became known as ‘the earl of Thomond’s house’.
In 1600, at the height of the Nine Years War, it is recorded that Hugh O’Donnell of Tyrconnell, with a view to weakening the O’Brien power base, plundered and burned large portions of Clare including the entire town of Ennis except for the Friary which he chose to spare. The end of that war in 1603 lead to a period of stability and in 1610 the earl of Thomond was granted a patent for a Tuesday market and two annual fairs at Ennis. The market was held where three streets meet in the centre of the town, now known as ‘The Square’. A two-storey market-house (CL033-082012-), arched on the ground floor for the use of market traders and serving also as a courthouse upstairs, had been built at this location by 1641 and a market cross (CL033-082032-) existed there until 1711. The status of the town was further enhanced in 1613 when it received a charter. Twelve burgesses and a provost formed a self-governing body with the power to elect two members of parliament.
A map of ‘Ennis Abbey Meadow’ by land surveyor Henry Ellsworth in 1634 shows a street layout much as it is today while a sketch by Thomas Dineley in 1681 is indicative of a similar layout. An account of the town in 1682 by the attorney Hugh Brigdall reveals that Ennis at that time consisted of 120 houses, 12 of which were slated, the rest being thatched. The number of inhabitants was 500-600. In 1703 cartographer Thomas Moland produced a pictorial map of Ennis showing the basic street pattern with several one- and two-storey houses and a new bridge (CL033-082014-) close to the Friary. This bridge opened the northern end of the town and the Friary precinct to through traffic.
Many of the existing houses in the town are likely to be 17th century in origin and Bradley, Halpin and King (1988, 51) state that all of Chapel Lane is most probably of this date. A definite 17th-century date has been established for a number of houses such as McParland’s (CL033-082005-) with its gable dated to c. 1600 (Coyne 2012) and some internal timbers dated to 1672. Cruise’s (CL033-082002-) has an intact west gable and datestone of 1658 and houses on all three main streets have Jacobean-style chimneys (CL033-082003-, CL033-082004- and CL033-082006-). Two other 17th-century houses, George Stacpoole’s and James McNamara’s (CL033-082010- and CL033-082030-) are known from existing inscribed stone plaques. Lenthall’s Inn (CL033-082009-) is depicted as having stood at the square on Dineley’s drawing and dates from 1681.
There are references to many monuments of interest in Ennis in 16th- and 17th-century historical sources although their precise locations are unknown. Fish weirs on the River Fergus (CL033-082050- and CL033-082051-) are noted in 1570 and 1585. In 1685 two ‘Mills of Inish’ are recorded (CL033-138001- and CL033-138002-) although earlier mills (CL033-082049-) are known to be associated with the Friary c. 1570. The establishment of a prison (CL033-082013-) in 1591 is cited with one Patrick Morgan appointed jailer and there is reference to another prison (CL033-082052-) under construction in 1642. Gallows (CL033-082007-) are known to have existed in Old Barrack Street North in 1674 and there were stocks (CL033-082052-) somewhere on O’Connell Street in 1682 with a pair of stocks erected in 1699. Schools are referred to in 1666 (CL033-082043-) and 1681 (CL033-082044-), known as John Stretch’s and Dr. Cargill’s respectively and a bakery (CL033-082045-) under the name Ellen Meagh is noted in 1674. (Ó Murchadha 1984, 65-8; Bradley, Halpin and King 1988, 44-6; Ua Cróinín and Breen 1992; Ó Dálaigh 1986; 1987; 1992; 2012)
Compiled by: Mary Tunney
Date of upload: 16 September 2014
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